Monday, October 24, 2011

Vatican City/Rome, Italy

"SPQR" - Senatus Populesque Romanus
"The Senate and the Roman People"
The events leading up to this latest installment began approximately nine years ago. I was 12 years old at the time, sitting in my middle school guidance counselor's office, looking over my schedule for the next year. It was that following year, my 7th grade year, that I decided to start my foreign language requirement, which would follow me throughout the rest of middle school and to the end of high school. Most people here chose between Spanish, French, and German. However, I decided to take a more interesting approach by choosing Latin, a language that, at the time, I figured was "dead" as they all say. Nine years later, I can really thank myself for choosing this course, as it is by far the main event that even makes this post possible. Maybe you will understand why by the time you are finished reading this exciting new adventure, which I undertook this passed weekend...

It was 2:00 AM Friday morning, the 21st of October. As I let the cold, German air seep through my open window, I packed the last of my things into my backpack. I had not slept that night, as I was preparing for an intensive seminar that I would have the next week. I met my friends travelling with me, Christina, also from UNCG, and Andrew, a good friend from Scotland. Together we set out into the crisp, 35 degree air and began our one hour walk to the main bus station (no public transportation was running at this time of the night), located near the main train station. From this bus station we rode two hours to Frankfurt's smaller airport, Frankfurt Hahn.

As we walked in, we checked the boards of departures, and saw that our 6:20 AM flight to Rome, Italy was on time. We checked our boarding passes and passports, went through security, and waited about an hour before boarding our Ryanair flight south.

We took off into the dawn, racing south to our warmer destination. About an hour into our trip, I looked down during a break in the clouds and saw, in all their majesty, the snow covered peaks of the Swiss Alps. As a kid, Dad always told me of his encounters with these mountains whenever he travelled to Switzerland. It felt good to know that I can share this fact now as well, although they take on a completely different view from the sky. Nevertheless it was a nice sight, and I drifted into a light sleep.

I was awakened suddenly by the announcement of our landing into Rome. As I looked out my window, a mountainous terrain turned quickly into a large city, with buildings and ruins alike, racing passed us. And then for a split second, in all its glory, passed the great Coliseum, as if it were a tiny toy. Ten minutes later we had arrvived at Rome - Ciampino, and from there we took a convenient bus into the main city. Literally two minutes from the let-off station was our hostel, and we walked in and checked our stuff in. We were not allowed to move into our room right then, so we decided to go out and see what there was to do.

So we decided to leave Italy. Technically, yes, but in reality, no. We bought ourselves an in-depth tour of the Vatican (Vatican City).  We walked around the walled border of the nation first, with only a small curb separating us from Italy. Our tour guide was excellent, and so knowledgable. At the very beginning he went over the history and founding of Rome, which I was very pleased to already have known, thanks to my language that I decided to study nine years ago.  We went through halls and halls of art, sculpture, and history. We walked down a narrow passageway and emerged into the Sistine Chapel. I was seeing things that I had only previously seen in textbooks. The Sistine Chapel is considered a Holy Place, and therefore all the crowd was occasionally hushed by the guards, and we were prohibited to take photos. (Of course I didn't obey this one...)


Inside Vatican City
From there our tour ended, and we decided to walk into St. Peter's Basilica, and marvelled at the structure and art of the interior. We then walked back outside, crossed the curbed border back into Italy, and began walking back towards the hostel (it was nearing dusk). On our way we decided to stop and see two important structures. We winded through the tiny roads and alleys, and came through an opening. There in front of me shown the Latin words "M.AGRIPPA.L.F.COS. TERTIUM.FECIT." (English: Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, having been consul three times, built it). These words I knew well to only be inscribed on the Pantheon, and here it stood before me. Inside I saw the famous dome as it bent upwards into an oval opening to the sky.


Pantheon, with Latin inscription

The opening in the dome
From there we walked to the Fontana di Trevi, the famous Baroque fountain. I threw two coins into the fountain, and you would be interested in what they represented. The first: a twenty Euro cent coin, symbolizing the full years I have lived, and the year of my life that I came to Rome. The second: a ten Euro cent coin, symbolizing ten more years that I hope to live, and as many years that I hope to one day return to Rome. We walked through the busy nightlife back to our hostel, stopping at a small restaraunt on the way, and then went to bed early. We had been awake for more than 36 hours...


In front of the Trevi Fountain

Andrew, Christina, Paul in front of the Trevi Fountain
We woke up early and set out into the morning air. Our first stop, the Coliseum. It no longer looked like a toy passing underneath a plane, but rather a huge, intimidating structure. Unfortunately heavy rains from a few days before had forced them to close the inside, so I was rather upset about this. But just seeing it was something that I will never forget. I stared at the thousand year old stones, imagining the stories they could tell me if they could talk. We got our photo taken with some Roman soldiers and set out down the road.


In front of the Coliseum

Preparing for battle
Unfortunately the long line was too long to get into the Forum, but we were able to grab lunch nearby and go for a quick lap around the Circus Maximus. I imagined myself in the midst of chariots racing by, with a crowd surrounding the entire complex, and hearing the roars of their voices. From there we visited the Terme di Caracalla, the site of the public Roman baths. It was quite amazing at the feat of architecture and layout. We walked on preserved flooring that once lay underneath steaming water, touched by the feet of bathing Romans. It was very impressive. We hung out here for a while and looked around, before taking the bus back to our hostel.


Circus Maximus

We relaxed for a while here, and left soon after to go to the Capitoline Museum. I saw some impressive artwork, including the famous she-wolf nursing Romulus and Remus. Many paintings and sculptures, some that must have been absolutely huge when they stood, were plentiful and interesting. One exhibit allowed us to put our face into a camera, and we fit our head into a picture on the wall. They were of people or soldiers, and the results were quite funny. The highlight of this museum was being able to go out onto a balcony and stare across the ruins of what I believe were the Forum (not sure about this). From this place we saw two lit archways, the lit up Coliseum in the distance, and an impressive area with nothing but ruins and diggings (there were no modern buildings in sight). We just stared out this window and took in the history that was sitting in front of us. The wind was light, and everything was quiet. We tried to imagine a bustling city center of Romans going about their daily business. I imagined everything I learned in my Latin textbooks and my history lessons. We stood here for quite some time.


Illegally pedicuring a sculpted foot that once served as the base for  what must have been an incredibly huge statue
the rest of the recovered parts. from left to right: a bicep, the bust, a knee cap, a hand with a pointing finger.


Statue of Numitor, the she wolf, nursing Romulus and Remus

Preparing for battle, for real

a goofy one couldn't hurt
Afterwards we went to dinner at this nice place. We tried different Italian beers and wines, and treated ourselves to quite a feast. We wanted to make the most of our last night in Rome. We stayed here and talked late into the night, and just enjoyed each others' company in that great city. It was passed midnight when we went back home, and I was not tired at all. I told myself that I would sleep, given how miserable I was with the lack of it going to Rome, but even then I just wanted to stay up and just think about all I had dreamed about Rome, and how satisfied I was at that point for having achieved the dream of seeing that city.

We overslept our 4:30 AM alarm to go the airport. It was a frantic getting up and packing. We must have upset our 60 year old or so Czech roomate, whom we had also found sleeping when we had entered the room that night. Since we had missed the bus to the airport, and the next one forcing us to miss our flight, I was able to communicate with a taxi driver, who then gave us a very cheap and generous fare to the airport. We sped along the Roman roads at quick speeds. This time the Coliseum sped passed us at the ground level, still looking like that majestic structure I had seen hours earlier face to face.

We arrived at the airport, did the usual, and left that great city of Rome, headed back to our temporary home in Germany. We paralled the Italian coastline, before coming over land again. The Swiss Alps were much more visable this time around given the amount of daylight, and it was an even pleasanter sight than the flight before. Soon those glorious mountains disappeared and became flat plains, and then to rollings hills. At that point I knew the land of my second chosen language lay beneath us once again, and we landed twenty minutes later, back into the cold air of Germany.


The Alps from above
We used our German (happily, now that we were in "familiar" territory) to buy food and inquire when the next bus to Mannheim would leave. I slept the two hour ride home, for I was quite exhausted, yet unbelievably satisfied. And as we walked off the airport express bus, and onto the public transportation bus, the trip became history. But this history I shall never forget, for what I had found, even though it was thousands of years later during my visit, was that Latin, the language that took me to Rome and back, the language that gives Rome the sites there are to visit today, the language that my Grandmother continues to teach at age 90, is not at all "dead".............

It is very much alive.



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Monday, October 3, 2011

Oktoberfest - Munich, Germany

"Welcome to Oktoberfest"

A few weeks ago, one of my good friends gave me a call and gave me some of the best news of my stay here in Germany: She had space for me to join her to the legendary Oktoberfest. The reason this excited me so much was the mere fact that I even had a place to stay. Usually, hotels and tent reservations are made almost a year in advance,given the sheer amount of people that attend this festival, but I was lucky enough to be able to join her, her boyfriend, and few others at an apartment for the weekend.

This trip unfortunately cannot be summed as well in words as it can pictures. Try looking at the following and just imagine yourself immersed with hundreds of thousands of people from all over the world, dressed in typical Oktoberfest clothing, standing on tops of chairs, benches, and tables, holding one liter beers, and dancing to cultural German Oktoberfest music.

In preparation for the festival, I attended a somewhat mock party here in Mannheim, where free entrance was given to those who wore the typical Oktoberfest clothing: "Lederhosen" for men, and "Dirndl" for women. I was able to borrow from a friend, since these things cost about 150-200 euros each. What I didn't know was that people actually DID where these to the real Oktoberfest. I thought at first that it was just quite ludicrous. I thought that you would absolutely stand out at the festival when wearing these.


My friend Zach and I wearing the traditional "Lederhosen."


Cassandra between us wearing the "Dirndl."
When I took the three hour train ride south to Munich, I slowly began to see that it was quite the opposite. At a certain point, almost half the entire train held people wearing these things, and now I was the one who stood out.

When I arrived, I met my friend at the station, went back to the apartment, and immediately began getting ready for the festival. The best times to get a seat in one of the 14 tents are at hours that you wouldn't expect. In fact, it's best to go early in the morning. However, we were able to find a seat in one of the tents, and it was absolutely crazy. Thousands of people, all squeezed together on tiny tables, with one liter maas beers in hand; many of them heavily under the influence. Traditional Oktoberfest music was playing, and almost the entire population of the tent was standing on the benches and dancing. You would never find such a thing at home...


A view outside the Shottenhamel Spatenbräu Tent, the one we spend most of our time in.

A view inside the Bräurosl Tent, with thousands of people standing and drinking.


A view from inside another tent, with more people sitting than standing (which is unsual).


And of course, the waiters and waitresses were also quite skilled, carrying many of these one liter "Maas" beers at once.
Most of my time in Munich was dedicated to this, spending five hours the first night, and eleven hours on Saturday. Along with the beers, it is also traditional to order chicken as a meal. This, and the beers, were very expensive, and I think it's meant to be that way, since most people who begin to be heavily drunk will not care how much they are spending. I tried avoiding this as much as possible, but I will admit that it was very hard to turn down a one liter beer whenever I was offered...


Me with a Maas.
Everyone at this festival is friendly. I found myself toasting with strangers, breaking one of my glasses given how hard we "Prost"ed.
Unless you accidently fall off the bench or table into another person, the people there are overall very nice and fun to be around, even if they are complete strangers. We were all there for one purpose, to drink beer and enjoy ourselves. Most people cannot complain with that. The festival was not only 14 tents, but also almost an amusement park, with hundreds of souvenir stands and stands with items cultural to Germany and more specifically Oktoberfest. There were also rides, such as a rollercoaster, and a dropzone type ride. There had to have been hundreds of thousands of people, no matter what time of the day I was there. People will sometimes be at this festival at seven o'clock in the morning and drink until eleven at night. I really have no words to describe this festival, the legendary Oktoberfest.

The festival from above.

It was hard for me at times to grasp that I was actually there, It's one of those things when I would always tell people, "I'm studying abroad in Germany this coming year," and the people would respond, "So you will be going to Oktoberfest, right?" It was probably the most frequently asked question among my friends right after I told that I would be here. I was very lucky to be able to experience such a crazy, unbelievable festival. I was proud of myself as I took the miserable, sickly hungover train ride back to Mannheim. I can now say that I've been to the world's largest wine AND beer festivals. For me, that this is the type of thing that I will share with my family when I grow old. Next time though, I hope to wear the "Lederhosen" when it really matters...


"Goodbye!"